"What's Occurring?" - A 'Gavin and Stacey' tour

When it comes to Wales’s cultural legacy, besides Tom Jones and Dylan Thomas, there’s one sitcom that springs to mind. From the moment it hit television screens in 2007, ‘Gavin and Stacey’ was an instant success. The ‘culture clash’ that ensues from a Barry girl’s marriage to an Essex boy evokes comedy that’s relatable, unpretentious, with dirty jokes and poignant moments to catch you off guard. On spotting a ‘Gavin and Stacey’ tour during our recent holiday to Wales, I knew we’d never get a better opportunity to learn just how a small seaside town managed to spark an internationally-loved comedy, and to hear how the Welsh feel about it all. And so, that’s how my Mum and I came to be waiting outside Barry Island station on a bright, sunny Saturday, as the maroon ‘Dave’s Coaches’ minibus pulled into the taxi rank.

Naturally, we all assumed this must be a replica vehicle, mocked up to indulge the tourists. There were a gasps of “Oh my Christ” when our guide, Carrie from Barry, informed us that we were sitting on the actual minibus used in filming! I mentally noted the position of our seats (third row from the front, right hand side) so I could spot them when re-watching the show. The bus had clearly seen better days, and shuddered its way through the Barry Island traffic. Our mode of transport garnered raised eyebrows from onlookers and no amount of grumbling from its driver, who later told us that its gearbox had been helpfully put in backwards. However, in spite of the bus’s ominous noises, it survived our excursion and provided us a simply unforgettable afternoon.

We trundled around Barry and beyond, with Carrie pointing out all sorts of filming locations to our left and to our right. We observed the hotel used as a wedding fair, the community center converted into an airport, and even the Holiday Inn where the cast stayed in season one, before the show’s success upgraded them to fancier accommodation. We hopped off the bus for a closer look at some of the show’s most significant venues, like Nessa’s caravan park and the church of Baby Neil’s christening. I stared in awe at the towering wooden doors that Smithy bursts through to stop the wedding in later episodes.

However, the absolute highlight of the tour was visiting Stacey’s home. ‘Dave’s Coaches’ rumbled down the steep hill, towards an idyllic postcard-picture view of the sea. After much revving, we parked outside a terraced house that had front windows adorned with news clippings, signed posters and character. “Our driver has to wait outside with the bus to check its handbrake doesn’t come off,” chuckled Carrie. We weren’t sure if she was joking.

Number 47 Trinity Street is owned by Glenda, an elderly lady who lives alone. The production team first selected the street for Stacey’s house for its typical seaside-town aesthetic, and then put flyers through all the front doors to see who wouldn’t mind a filming crew invading their living room. Interested households were interviewed, and it’s easy to see why Glenda stood out, with her long shimmering grey hair and arms of bright tattoos. She greeted us from the sofa with a friendly wave, her eyes crinkling in a warm smile from behind her facemask. Filled with show memorabilia, Glenda’s front room resembles a ‘Gavin and Stacey’ museum. Every surface is covered with a photograph or prop, plus some signed cards from the cast, to whom she is very dear. The kitchen stove hosted Gwen’s actual omelette pan, which I naturally couldn’t resist a photo with.

Handwritten signs, sellotaped to the wall, guided us around the house, and even invited us to use the bathroom. Upstairs, Stacey’s bedroom is untouched, complete with the character’s toiletries and childhood dolls. Not only has Glenda opened up her home to visitors, but certificates from the RNLI show that she’s put the donations made by fans to very good use. Glenda was ever so hospitable throughout our visit. “Feel free to sit on the sofa,” she said cheerily, “it’s not the original, but you’re welcome to sit!” We made sure to leave a friendly message in Glenda’s visitor’s book, and she waved us goodbye from her garden wall.

From watching the show, it’s easy to see how ‘Gavin and Stacey’ became such an instant hit amongst viewers. However, the tour opened my eyes to just how much the programme means to the people of Barry. Mum remembers day-trips to Barry Island as a child, and she has memories of an extremely run-down coastal town. Although the many empty shopfronts prove financial instability still exists here, Carrie enthused about how much of a boost ‘Gavin and Stacey’ had been for the Barry, drawing international visitors like its residents could never have imagined. Mum certainly noticed the difference, although I couldn’t persuade her to try any of the fairground rides. Carrie noted numerous shops, cafes and other locations, that are mentioned in passing by a character and prove how firmly rooted the sitcom is in the small town that started it all. Sometimes, it feels like every British sitcom is built on characters who spend their nights in an All Bar One, then hop on the night tube back to a bedsit in Clapham. Seeing Barry hit the big-time in a BAFTA-winning comedy is huge. 

We were far from the most committed Gavin and Stacey fans on the tour, and had simply popped over on the train during our holiday in Cardiff. During a drink at the pub (where no-one ordered a mint baileys or a pint of wine!), it transpired that many attendees had made the trip to Wales specially. A quiz on the bus also revealed some highly niche trivia knowledge amongst our group. Following the tour, my appreciation for the show has expanded massively, knowing not just it provides for the viewers who love it, but what it gave Barry Island.